As the year comes to a close and temperature drops, we in the northern climes must put our bikes away for the long, cold winter. Here are a few tips on what to do to keep your bike in top shape: Change the oil & filter first (rather than keep the shmutzik oil and particles in your bike, over the winter), fill the gas tank (even though I only use regular, I'll put in 92 octane because it will lose some power and importantly 'fuel stabilizer' which minimizes the loss of fuel quality over the long period). You should add the stabilizer with your last fill up, run the engine for ten minutes before shutting down, for the season. You want the tank full, so there's less air inside (which causes oxidation -- rust).
The bike should be cleaned before being covered. Any insect splatter or bird poop (acid) destroys the paint. Once clean, apply a coat of wax, then cover.
If you have a center stand, use it. Place a couple of pieces of styrofoam between the tires and the concrete. Ensure they are properly inflated as air will leak out during the winter. Ride only with the proper air pressure for maximum tire longevity (and safety). Check the pressure, at least, weekly. Lastly, either remove the battery or connect a battery tender to it (an automatic charger) so that months later, your baby will start like new!
First thing is that all manufacturers are legally responsible for "use as intended". Motorcycle oil from a well-established motorcycle oil supplier/manufacturer usually has a good reputation and the manufacturer stands behind his product. All "big engine oil manufacturers" test their oils on the engines they advertise to protect and in their intended use evironment. But note they stand behind "use as intended" only. If someone decides to play chemical engineer, he can, totally at his own risk; his engine life will shorten most likely, by how, it depends.
That said, all brands have their own secret recipes, some will "work better" with some engines, and not as well with others. You'll know by the clatter the engine makes. That is about the only kind of "experimentation" that makes sense.
Synthetic oils simply last longer and are more slipperier than mineral oil. They also provide a better "metallic bump/shock" cushion. Mineral oils are best used to break-in a new engine (at low rpm) - are little less slippery, are a little quicker wear so that parts will wear into each other before they get carbon-coated. Recommend oil + filter change at 300 miles then again at 1000 miles but switch to synthetic at 1000 miles.
You know your bike best because you ride it and have a feel for it. After trying many brands of motorcycle oil, I settled on using Yamalube Gold synthetic because it results in the least engine clatter on my super blackbird. I can sense the bike is happy. Yes it's a tad more expensive, but i don't blow my money on frivolous things, I spend my money on stuff that matters to me. My super blackbird is a 2002 and it runs like new. Guess why.
Example of what can go wrong:
A diesel engine is purposely built to be under load (hauling, etc...) at low RPM for hours. To survive, diesel engines are built to exact specs/tolerances, lots of metal, big bearings, etc... expensive but built to work hard. Diesels burn diesel fuel, it's dirty, leaves behind a lot of carbon and by-products Gasoline engines do not work as hard, used in cars and bikes and are used to accelerate for a short time and then coast. If a gasoline engine is used hard, it won't last. Gasoline is a pretty good solvent and on long trips, tends to dissolve a lot of carbon into the oil.
Diesel oils are specially formulated (with carbon dissolving detergents) to clean out diesel engines because because they get dirty. If you use a diesel motor oil or do a "super flush" of an older (or even a newer) gasoline engine you will regret it. Gas engines will have "micro cracks" that fill with hard-to-dissolve carbon and help seal the engine. The high-powered detergents will dissolve those beneficial carbon fills and engine will not be sealed any more. Exhaust blow-by, etc... problems will spring up. Why? Because someone played chemist?
The chemists that develop engine oils are keenly aware of all of the above and much more. They develop their products for specific engines, the fuel they use, and the way the engines are used.
Use oil for intended use! Use good quality oil if you want zero problems, preferably synthetic.
Ride safe,
all the best,
Yani.
Thank you, Yani. One question I now have. I have always preferred the use of semi or fully synthetic oils and sometimes get into arguments with Goldwing riders who use Shell Rotax in their motorcycles (claiming it's just as good as regular oil but cheaper). Do you know about this and if so, have an opinion?
you are on the right track! step 1 was using ethanol free gas. Using Yamalube fuel stabilizer (200 to 300 l per full tank) is the second step. Before storage, i always change the oil (go for ride, let the stabilized fuel get into system, and warm up the engine for an oil change), after ride change the oil with a high quality oil (Yamalube, amsoil, spectro, etc..., I use Yamalube "Gold" full synthetic). Reason: dirty oil contains acids and combustion by products that eat metal slowly but surely, I don't like dirty oil sitting in the crankcase for months!. Start up engine to oil coat insides and bearings with new, fresh oil. Then disconnect battery ground wire, this ensures no battery drain (modern bikes always suck current). Once very three months, charge it with a trickle charger for a few hours to "top it off". Do not leave battery on a "trickle charger" no matter what the charger ads say - my experience is that it is bad for the battery - a short life. I have a super blackbird so every 4 years i flush the cooling system and i use Honda motorcycle premixed coolant always - best coolant on the market IMHO. I always use same Honda coolant so i do not have to do an exhaustive system flush (warning: some coolants are incompatible and turn to mush like a chuncky goo so switch brands or types requires a thorough flush with de-mineralized or distilled water - no less than 3 flushes so that water runs clear, and only then fill with new brand/new type of coolant).
one last thing: never, never use products race track products for ordinary street use. reason: race track products have an incredibly short life and are designed for SUSTAINED high rpm and high heat use. the expectation is that after every race, ALL fluids are changed, and the engine is re-built. Finally, race products wear out very, very quickly. Street use products are designed for long-life and normal street use which includes "once in a while you can beat the engine" but NOT like on a race track for at least an hour or two sustained!
And one other last thing, use oils and coolants designed for motorcycle engines, not automotive. Best brake fluid: normal DOT-4. Some harleys use DOT-5 which is mineral oil fluid. NEVER, EVER use glycol fluid in a system designed for mineral oil or use mineral oil in a gylcol system. NEVER! Reason: all seals will leak, metal will corrode, you will likely end up replacing entire braking system.
all the best,
John (Yani).
Worst offender is gasohol - after a tie, gasoline and ethanol tend to separate, this is bad for fuel system parts. Gasoline additive such as Fuel Stabilizer by Yamalube is excellent. To use, tank should be between 1/2 to full, add contents into tank (do not spill on paint) and go for a 1/2 drive to get it all mixed and into carb/injectors. If possible, use "pure" gasoline for storage.
DO NOT USE ANY FLUIDS INTENDED FOR RACING. These are very high performance fluids intended for high temperature use and they all have a very, very short lifespan. They really do not age well. Reason: After a race, bike is torn-down, drained of all fluids, and rebuilt with all new, fresh fluids. Moral of the story: use fluids intended for a long service life, we all ride for long, extended periods of time over the entire riding season.
After ride, assuming you will be storing bike, change oil and filter - use a good brand of synthetic oil such as Yamalube Gold, AMSOIL, Motul, etc... Semi-Synthetic excellent also. I have found Yamalube products to be excellent. Reason: dirty oil has acids and other funky combustion by products in oil. These eat at bearings, etc... I like clean oil sitting in the crank case. Do not use "racing" motor oils.
Brake fluid or clutch fluid change. Never, Never, put glycol fluid into a mineral oil system or out mineral oil into a glycol system. NEVER. Use Dot-3 or Dot-4 and avoid any "racing brake fluid".
Fork oil change? Belray has always been good.
Rad fluid change? Honda pre-mix rad fluid is best.
Clean chain if you have a chain drive. Make sure you lube with a chain lube. a "chainwax" is best - it coats and stick, does not fling off and is not "sticky" (sticky stuff attracts dirt). Shaft drive - as necessary - make sure linkage system is properly lubed (this is often forgotten and that leads to expensive repairs). V-Twin riders, change primary & gear box oils, no sense in having dirty oil sitting there.
Last step: disconnect battery, disconnect battery ground from bike. If possible, trickle charge once every 3 months for a day. Trickle charge for a day before taking bike out of storage.
all the best, brothers,
John
from Montreal, QC, Canada.
Or ship it to Florida and ride it!